Land of fishermen, Cova do Vapor has that special charm of places where people still live at a natural pace. Enjoy nature, enjoy a pleasant lunch, bury your feet in the warm sand or let the sea embrace you with the patience of someone waiting for the fish to take the bait.
The origin of the curious name of Cova do Vapor (something like “Steam Pit”) is based on several theories, but according to the predominant one, “Cova” was born from the shape of the beach, a shell, the result of the tidal countercurrents that occur near the Tagus at the end of the ebb tide.
The word “Vapor” probably refers to a steam dredger that at the beginning of the 20th century removed sand to build some docks and quays in Lisbon.
Cova do Vapor, located on the south bank of the Tagus River, began to develop in the last century, roughly at the same time that leisure linked to bathing became popular. Until then, this place with unique characteristics was only known and valued by fishermen, whose presence predates the 20th century.
The first fishermen were residents of Trafaria, a nearby town, who moved there (as well as to the adjacent beach, today known as São João).
In 1932, records appeared for the construction of a boat docking pier for the river connection from Lisbon to Cova do Vapor and, two years later, the first authorizations were requested for the occupation of land and construction of demountable wooden houses, as well as for the rental of a plot of land on the beach in this location.
The boat connection made this beach (with one side river and the other ocean) very popular, entering into the bathing habits of Lisbon residents and bringing a new intense social life to Cova do Vapor. Thus, the attendance of Lisbon residents led to the organization of dances and shows and led to the installation of cafes, restaurants, overnight stays, first aid posts and a post office.
However, in the 40s and 50s of the last century, the dredging carried out led to significant changes in the nature of this area, with the reduction of sand and the elimination of dunes that were already stabilized by spontaneous vegetation. These changes led to an advance of the sea, with the town retreating 1700 m, and the disappearance of the most advanced points of the sand, known as Coroa de Fora and Bico da Areia. The effects of human intervention were also felt in fishermen’s homes on several occasions. The harshest winters still cause the sea to reach homes today, but local memory records the storms of 1958 and 1962 as the worst moments.
The population mobilized to try to save their heritage and, with the help of teams of oxen, most of the wooden huts in what was then called Lisbon-Praia (the Atlantic area of Cova do Vapor) were saved, transforming later and in fixed houses.
As some of the most iconic local characters remember, Manuel da Fruta was the one who moved houses and if some arrived at their destination intact, others ended up dismantling along the way.
Finally, the boat docking pier was also destroyed, leading to the end of the river routes.
After the 1974 Revolution, the consolidation of the first informal dwellings began, which still remain and which give Cova do Vapor a peculiar architecture (the result of self-construction), already the subject of different studies. Likewise, coastal protection jetties and some infrastructure were also built.
What to see
🏰The architecture
The buildings in Cova do Vapor have a tradition of informal architecture, based on relatively precarious constructions that resulted from the initiative of the locals.
The houses, many of which began as shelters for fishing gear, many built on piles (stilts), were built spontaneously, which often makes it difficult to distinguish where some begin and others end. Motifs linked to the sea, such as shells and reproductions of coastal birds, are used as decoration, to which various unexpected elements are added.
In addition to building their own houses, all inhabitants contributed to the construction of water, electricity and tarmac networks for the town’s main streets.
The Cova do Vapor Residents’ Association, founded in 1993, plays a fundamental role in the social organization and management of all public services in the neighborhood. The Association’s members meet frequently and collaborate to improve the neighborhood’s common services, namely the water evacuation system and the electrical system.
Cova do Vapor has around 350 and close to 1000 inhabitants. The street names are chosen by residents, based on short stories.
🌊Nature
The beach and dunes are the greatest value of Cova do Vapor.
The large ocean beach is perfect for enjoying the sea and the waves in peace and without the huge crowds that populate the neighboring beaches.
With ideal conditions for windsurfing, it is also chosen by many surfers due to its swell.
The smaller beach, bathed by the river, is a favorite with families, as it has calmer waters.
Essential for protecting the coast from the action of winds and waves and limiting the advance of the coastline, the dunes of Cova do Vapor have been the subject of a protection project that has, so far, involved the installation of 5 km of wicker palisades. . Inside, 80,000 plants native to the dunes were planted, raised in nurseries and with the aim of preserving the genetic diversity of the region’s vegetation.
How to get there
About 23 km from Lisboa
Boat from Lisbon arriving in Trafaria
Transtejo Soflusa Timetable
Bus 3015 Carris Metropolitana from Trafaria
For more
Caparica-Trafaria Parish Council
Travel Light 